Archive for Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Food: Grilled cheese sandwiches to knock your socks off

July 30, 2013, 3:33 p.m.

Updated: July 31, 2013, 12:00 a.m.

When I was a child, I thought like a child, I ate like a child: PB&Js, BLTs and grilled cheese sandwiches made from slices of Velveeta melted to gooey perfection between two slices of skillet-toasted white bread.

But when I became an adult, I put away childish things. I grew out of Velveeta and Wonder bread. Grilled cheese sandwiches, however, are forever — assuming you know how to update them for a more grown-up palate.

Begin by using better bread. In place of the squishy white stuff, try something with more substance: a flavorful sourdough, sweet brioche, or crunchy baguette, for example. Buy a loaf, and slice it yourself into slabs about half an inch think (or halve the baguette lengthwise). The slices should be substantial enough to hold everything together but not so bulky that they overwhelm the flavor of the sandwich.

Next, add some interesting texture or flavors to the filling. Thin slices of sweet apple and spicy jalapenos complement sourdough slices nicely. The brioche makes a delicious and filling breakfast or brunch when stuffed with sliced ham, sauteed mushrooms and a fried egg. A baguette yields a bruschetta-like grilled cheese sandwich when dressed with fresh basil leaves, pesto and tomato confit.

The star in this show, of course, is the cheese. You can use the fanciest, stinkiest, crumbliest cheese your heart desires if you borrow a trick from the food scientists at Kraft. Flip over a box of Velveeta and you’ll find there, listed among the other ingredients, the reason that it slices so easily and melts so uniformly: sodium citrate. This white, crystalline ingredient looks like salt, and in fact it is a salt — a salt of citric acid, which is a natural component of citrus fruits. You can buy sodium citrate at some brewer supply stores or order it readily online.

I keep a big jar of the stuff in my pantry because it is so useful for making cheese sauces for pasta, nachos or fondue. Just dissolve 11 grams of sodium citrate into 1 1/8 cups (265 milliliters) of milk or water over medium heat, bring to a simmer, and gradually whisk or blend in 285 grams of finely grated cheese (3 to 4 cups, depending on the kind of cheese and coarseness of the grater). As the cheese melts, the sodium citrate serves as an emulsifier and prevents the fat from splitting off to form a greasy slick on top.

The recipes below riff on this technique to make a thicker cheese sauce that sets into an even sheet, perfect for cutting into slices and adding to sandwiches. Use whatever kind or blend of cheeses and liquids you want (cold wheat beer works well in place of water).

Aged white chedder on sourdough with apples

Start to finish: 2 1/2 hours (30 minutes active)

Makes 4 sandwiches

For the cheese slices:

3 teaspoons (14 grams) sodium citrate

1/2 cup (115 milliliters) water

6 cups (380 grams) aged white cheddar cheese, grated

For the sandwich:

Butter

8 slices sourdough bread, about 1/2 inch thick

8 very thin slices apple (Honeycrisp, or your favorite variety)

3 tablespoons (30 grams) thinly sliced jalapenos

Line a rimmed baking sheet with a silicone baking mat, or oil the sheet lightly, and heat it in an oven set to its lower temperature. The larger the baking sheet, the thinner the cheese slices will be.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, dissolve the sodium citrate in the water, then bring to a simmer. Add the grated cheese to the simmering water a handful at a time while whisking or blending with an immersion blender until all of the cheese is completely melted and smooth.

Pour the melted cheese onto the warmed baking sheet. Tip the sheet back and forth to form a single layer of even thickness. Cover the cheese layer with plastic wrap, and place it in the refrigerator until set, about 2 hours. Slice the cheese into pieces sized to fit your bread slices.

When ready to prepare the sandwiches, heat a large, heavy skillet over medium. Alternatively, heat a sandwich grill or panini press.

Butter the outward-facing sides of each bread slice, assemble the sandwiches, each with a slice of cheese, a slice of apple and a bit of the jalapenos. Add a sandwich to the skillet and panfry until the bread is golden brown and the cheese is melted, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Repeat with remaining sandwiches.

Goat cheese on baguette with tomato confit and basil

Start to finish: 2 1/2 hours (30 minutes active)

Makes 4 sandwiches

For the cheese slices:

2 1/2 tablespoons (38 milliliters) water

2 1/4 teaspoons (11 grams) sodium citrate

3 cups (380 grams) goat cheese, rind removed and crumbled (Bucheron or your favorite semi-aged goat cheese)

For the sandwich:

16-inch baguette

Butter, as needed

1/4 cup (80 grams) pesto

1/2 cup (120 grams) tomato confit in oil (or sun-dried tomatoes in oil)

8 to 12 leaves fresh basil

Line a rimmed baking sheet with a silicone baking mat, or oil the sheet lightly, and heat it in an oven set to its lower temperature. The larger the baking sheet, the thinner the cheese slices will be.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, dissolve the sodium citrate in the water, then bring to a simmer. Add the cheese to the simmering water a handful at a time while whisking or blending with an immersion blender until all of the cheese is completely melted and smooth.

Pour the melted cheese onto the warmed baking sheet. Tip the sheet back and forth to form a single layer of even thickness. Cover the cheese layer with plastic wrap, and place it in the refrigerator until set, about 2 hours. Slice the cheese into pieces sized to fit your bread slices.

When ready to prepare the sandwich, heat a large, heavy skillet over medium. Alternatively, heat a sandwich grill or panini press.

Cut the baguette into 4 segments, each about 4 inches long, then slice each segment in half lengthwise. Lightly butter the crust of each baguette slice, then assemble the sandwiches, using a bit of pesto, a slice of cheese, a bit of sun-dried tomatoes and 2 to 3 basil leaves per sandwich. Panfry each sandwich until the crust is toasted and the cheese is melted, 2 to 3 minutes on a side.

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